Fruity

1. Choose a wide, heavy based, non-reactive pot (use a jam pan if
you have one) that will fit in your fridge. Gauge the ideal depth
of the contents by poking your index finger in. The level from the
pot base to the top of the fruit should be around the first knuckle
crease above the fingernail. Put your jam ingredients in the pot,
then chill uncovered overnight, but give the mix a mash/massage (a
‘mashage’) every time you reach in for a Kit-Kat or hummus snack.

Think of this as a romantic night away for your jammy ingredients, so they
can get to know each other. I keep a spoon in my pot and give the ingredients
a good mashy stir every time I pass the fridge. Choosing a wide pot and
keeping the contents shallow hastens evaporation, for bright flavour and
colour retention. Prolonged cooking makes dull stewed fruit.


2. The next day, place the pot over a medium–high heat, stirring to
loosen any sugar as the jam comes to the boil. Keep the heat high
enough that bubbles appear across 100 per cent of the surface.


The juice will rise and a foam will form on top (which I, lazy jammer,
don’t worry about skimming off). Boil for 6 minutes, longer if the
fruit is very juicy. The foam will have dissipated, the jam should be
glossy and the syrup only a little thick. Remove from the heat. Cool
for 5 minutes, then taste and ‘season’ with more sugar or acidity
like lemon juice. Press a piece of baking paper to the surface and
chill overnight in the jam p an.

The chill gives the fruit time to absorb some syrup and thicken further. You
can shorten this process and only chill for a few hours and then re-boil if
time is pressing.

3. The next day, take the paper cartouche off and simmer again, with
the same effervescence (as above) for 10 minutes. Stir the jam more
often on this simmer, taking care that it doesn’t scorch on the base.


If the jam scorches on the base, tip it into a fresh saucepan WITHOUT
disturbing the burnt bits and keep going! There will be a back note of dark
caramel, but just make it an asset and call it ‘caramelised apricot jam’.

The jam will sputter a little more aggressively on each stir, so be
careful. This is a clear indicator you are deep in the almost-ready
jam zone. Adjust sweetness (more sugar) or acidity (a squeeze of
lemon). The jam is ready when the spoon drawn across the base of
the pot leaves a clear channel for a second. To further test doneness,
scoop a small spoonful out onto a plate, cool for 5 minutes and
assess the viscosity.*

Ask yourself, ‘Is this jam, in this moment, cooled on this plate, the
consistency I want on my croissant/cake/toast later?’
4. Scrape into a container and keep chilled. I am not a super technical
jar-er, preferring to chill my low-sugar preserves.

* If your jam doesn’t thicken and looks
like fruit in syrup, that means the
pectin was too low – usually due
to older or low-quality frozen fruit.


I will still use it by pulsing the jam
in batches in a food processor or
chopping the strained fruit and
stirring it back into the syrup. Still
absolutely usable for a tucked-away
cake filling!
Thin out too-thick jam or marmalade
by reheating and adjusting with
verjuice, orange juice or a lemon
juice/water combo until it becomes
a looser consistency.